Monday 12 May: a cycle tour of South Harris

 It’s a bit grey this morning but no rain so we prepare for a circular tour of South Harris. We start off along the Hebridean Way towards Tarbert up a steep hill before turning off onto the Bays Road which follows the eastern side of South Harris southerly towards Leverberg. It’s known as The Golden Road as critics felt it cost too much to build a road through such inaccessible landscape. It’s narrow, winding and undulating and mainly very quiet with few vehicles. Perfect for cycling. Occasional signs of habitation, fishing boats, inlets and small lochs with the back drop of the imposing Gneiss rock hills to the west. We see seals basking and swimming. We’re desperate for a coffee but to no avail. It’s stunning scenery but a hard slog cycling against the wind at times. It seems to take ages before we reach St Clements Church, the patron saint of mariners, and look at the ancient gravestones and carved statues. In Leverberg we visit Borrisdale Harris Tweed shop where we talk to the owner who weaves the traditional tweed. We buy cushions. Too many to cycle with so she will deliver them to our campsite when she swims tomorrow evening 🤞. We head to Croft 36 for sustenance (a hut with an honesty box allegedly filled with local home made food to take away) only to find it’s been hoovered up! We manage a coffee and a cake and press on. The sun is out now but the wind still strong. We have soup and a beer just close to our campsite and arrive back after 32 miles. We find a sheltered spot at the far end of the beach and I manage another cold swim. It’s quite rough now. Back to the van for sausages and baked beans. 










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