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Saturday 17 May: to the mainland

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 Another sunny morning but no swim today. A fairly leisurely start and we get to the Arnol Black House just before it opens at 10. This is an authentic black house dating from the 1920s but unfortunately it’s closed for essential renovations to the walls and woodwork! We chat to the lady in the shop whose husband is out cutting peat. Then we drive northwards through occasional scattered habitations to Ness and the Butt of Lewis. The lighthouse is imposing and made of brick. It’s in the Guinness Book of Records as the windiest place in the UK. We do put on layers again to explore the coast, cliffs adorned with thrift and nesting fulmars. We see some Black Guillemot and a large seal sunning his head above the water. Afterwards we find a quaint cafe for a filter coffee, carrot cake and cheese scone. It takes about an hour across the open moorland to Stornaway where we manage to park the van and wander for a bit. We feel we’re in a big city after all the wilderness we have got used to....
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Friday 16 May: Lewis

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 Another glorious swim before breakfast. This really is an idyllic spot. We set off in good time retracing our steps through the rugged terrain and lochens of Uig to the main road. We visit the Calenish stones, an impressive circular formation of pointed standing stones dating from 4000 BC. Then on to Don Carloway Broch a magnificent Iron Age fort perched on a mound overlooking the surrounding terrain. We have to crouch to get through the door and passageway. Then to Black House village and museum where we visit replicas of the original thatched Croft black houses, learn about the history and watch interesting videos on peat cutting and the weaving of Harris Tweed. We have a coffee and a roll in the cafe before walking around the headland to see dramatic views of stone stacks, cliffs and the Flannan Isle Lighthouse in the far distance. Our campsite is at Siabost and we relax a bit in the extraordinary sunshine. We cycle 1.2 miles to the local fish and chip shop which proves to be u...
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Thursday 15 May: the Valtos Peninsula

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 Breakfast overlooking the beach in the sunshine. It’s less windy today. I sit and read while Simon does some beachcombing. We have to move pitches today. The views are still pretty good. We make a picnic and set off walking along Reef beach around the headland. We find a deserted minute cove with crystal clear waters where we swim. No need for a costume here! Then onwards to another beach where we have lunch and admire the view. Back via some small lochens some filled with bog bean. Back to Reef beach for another swim, clothed this time. We are even sunbathing. Can this really be Scotland?! A sunny evening in our new pitch. Rice and Dahl for supper. Reaching the dregs of supplies now!
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Wednesday 14 May: Whisky and Lewis

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 We start the day with another exhilarating swim. I could get used to this. We pack up and drive into Tarbert where we visit the Isle of Harris Distillery for a whisky tour. It’s quite early to start drinking but we can take away in little bottles and Simon is driving! It’s a very interesting insight into the whisky making process, the investment required and the challenges for a small island community in the current financially uncertain climate. Although early in its evolution it takes pretty damn good to me! We then drive over the bridge to little Scalpay where Izzie and Luke stayed. We have a bowl of fish soup in a bistro overlooking the small harbour before heading north through Harris and into Lewis and eventually eastwards to Uig. The scenery gets more wild and rugged as we leave the main road.  We’d reserved a slot at Ardroil Sands campsite thinking that we could cycle to the Uig Sands Restaurant that has been recommended to us. The campsite is just a car park however ...
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Tuesday 13 May: Huisinis

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 The wind has died overnight and it’s beautifully calm. We are tempted in the sea for an early morning cold swim. Exhilarating! And we even manage a shower afterwards. We’re meant to move pitches today so we leave our bikes and storage tent at the side of the pitch and head off to Huisinis. The road follows the north coast of Taransay Bay for 14 miles winding up and down and twisting from left to right. Glorious views of still lochs and inlets and mountains behind. The guide book likens it to Patagonia. Not much traffic and although single track there are plenty if passing places so not too stressful. We pass a Castle and then arrive at Huisinis Gateway which although at the back of beyond has been discovered by motorhomes. They have created a car park with facilities for overnight camping but we are glad that we decided not to stay as you’re just parked 6 inches away from the next van. We set off on a circular walk with more stunning scenery of white sands, turquoise sea, lochs an...
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Monday 12 May: a cycle tour of South Harris

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 It’s a bit grey this morning but no rain so we prepare for a circular tour of South Harris. We start off along the Hebridean Way towards Tarbert up a steep hill before turning off onto the Bays Road which follows the eastern side of South Harris southerly towards Leverberg. It’s known as The Golden Road as critics felt it cost too much to build a road through such inaccessible landscape. It’s narrow, winding and undulating and mainly very quiet with few vehicles. Perfect for cycling. Occasional signs of habitation, fishing boats, inlets and small lochs with the back drop of the imposing Gneiss rock hills to the west. We see seals basking and swimming. We’re desperate for a coffee but to no avail. It’s stunning scenery but a hard slog cycling against the wind at times. It seems to take ages before we reach St Clements Church, the patron saint of mariners, and look at the ancient gravestones and carved statues. In Leverberg we visit Borrisdale Harris Tweed shop where we talk to the ...
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Sunday 11 May: to South Harris

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 There’s a bit of rain in the early hours but only drizzle by the time we’re up and it seems to be improving quickly. We drive out northwards through North Uist and then over a small causeway to Berneray where we wait for the ferry to Harris. It’s another pleasant crossing and we chat to a pleasant couple from Nova Scotia who know all the birds. Great views of gannets, arctic terns, eiders and great northern divers and some seals basking in the rocks. It’s only 10 miles to our campsite at Horgabost and it’s very scenic along the way with white sands and turquoise waters. The campsite is idyllically situated albeit fairly rustic and as everything is fully booked we expect the facilities will be busy. After lunch we walk to Luskentyre and admire the colours of the sands and waters of the bay. It’s getting a bit chilly so we’ll probably be spending the evening inside the van tonight. 
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